The Family Table: Hot Chicken Pies for Christmas Morning Cheer

Who would have thought hot chicken pie would become a treasured family Christmas tradition! But it has been for our family since the late 1800s. My great-grandmother wanted to give her family a special Christmas morning surprise after they returned from the chilly pre-dawn chores necessary to keep their small New Hampshire farm functioning. She prepared a heartier-than-usual breakfast for this special holiday and it became an annual tradition that not even two world wars or one Great Depression could interrupt.

I can only imagine how time-consuming making a chicken pie in the late 1800s would be. Actually slaughtering the chickens and hauling the water to boil the meat to create the broth is not something I would know how to do, nor would I wish to. After all, we have grocery stores where segmented chicken parts are already dismembered and even skinned, running water through modern plumbing, and stoves that don’t require wood to keep them heated to the proper temperature.

As this tradition continued through the generations, small additions have been added to the original breakfast. Half a grapefruit with a scoop of sherbet on top for each person was added as the “first course” before the pies were cut and shared. Platters filled with sweet breads, cookies, and candies were added to complement the chatter that always came with good food. And after World War II, champagne was added to toast one another and to express thanks for another safe year.

Each addition has added color and festivity to this wonderful breakfast tradition. And the number of participants around the table expanded to include more than just family members. If we knew of someone who would be alone during the holidays, they would be invited. The table expanded to accommodate whatever the number might be. “The more, the merrier” was the norm.

My generation added small gifts placed at each place setting, gaily wrapped in Christmas colors. A special gift representing some special event that occurred during the year would be chosen for each person at the table and usually provided lively conversation when opened. It could be an ornament or a magnet that recognized an accomplishment, hobby, humorous event, or something specifically meaningful for the recipient.

Christmas 2020 was particularly poignant and meaningful for me. I became a widow the previous April. My Christmas spirit was not in bloom and I didn’t have the energy to make my pies. Usually, this preparation would have been completed in October and the pies already in the freezer ready for Christmas morning. The best I could do was purchase a frozen chicken pie to share with my two sons. I forewarned them so that it wouldn’t be a disappointing surprise.

What I never imagined was having my boys show up that Christmas morning with all the “fixings” to make the pies from scratch in my kitchen. You cannot imagine what a gift this was for me. Not only watching my kids actually know how to prepare food from scratch but doing it in my kitchen. What an awe-inspiring and amazing event!

Apparently, they conspired to do this when I told them I didn’t have the energy to prepare our usual Christmas breakfast. The fact that this tradition was important to them means I must have done my duty in passing along one very special and important family event.

What a heartwarming, generous, and beautiful gift they gave their mother, one for which I shall always be grateful. May your holidays bring you delightful surprises and much gratitude, too.

Wash the chicken thoroughly, removing the neck, liver, kidneys, and heart from the little bag inside of the bird. Place the neck and giblets into a small saucepan to simmer until cooked. They will be chopped to add to the pie filling.

Place the bird into a large kettle filled with enough water to submerge the bird. Chop 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 large celery stalk, and 1 green pepper into chunks. Add to the kettle with the bird. Bring water to a boil and reduce to a simmer, then cover and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, watching to determine how the cooking is progressing.

When cooked, remove the bird and let it cool. Discard the cooked vegetables. While the chicken is cooling, prepare the rest of the filling and the white sauce.

Grate the remaining 4 carrots, and chop the remaining onion, celery, and green and red peppers. Set aside. (This is where you can personalize your pie. Chop whatever vegetables you wish to have in it. I think the colors add to the festiveness of the occasion.)

In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Stir in the flour and blend well.

Stir in the cold milk, using a wire whisk to blend smoothly as it thickens. Slowly bring to a boil and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add salt and pepper to taste.

When the chicken is cooled, discard the skin and bones. Cut the meat into small, bite-sized pieces and place in a large bowl. Chop the giblets and add to the meat. Add the vegetables and mix everything together.

Measure the flour and salt into a bowl and mix together. Add the butter and, using a pastry blender, mix until well blended. The mixture should look like small peas. Add water 1 tablespoon at a time until mixture can be formed into a ball. Work the dough with your hands until smooth. Divide the dough into 4 equal parts.

Place half of the dough on a floured surface and, using a rolling pin, form a circle large enough to fit a 7-inch pie pan. Repeat with the other pieces.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line two 7-inch pie pans with a bottom layer of crust.

Add the white sauce to the chicken and vegetable filling and stir until thoroughly mixed. If desired, add more seasoning or spices to taste.

Divide the mixture evenly between the two pie pans. Cover each pie with a top crust and score the top, venting it to release steam while cooking.

Bake in the oven for 35 to 45 minutes, until the crust is brown and the juices are bubbling. Let cool for a bit before slicing.

If pies are made in advance of the celebration, freeze them. I usually make my pies in October. Wrap in aluminum foil, sealing well, and freeze until ready to cook. When ready to cook, heat oven to 375 degrees F and place frozen pies into oven to cook.

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