Commentary
There has been a massive demographic scrambling in the United States—probably true around the world too—in the last four years due to extreme government policies (please don’t tell me it was the pandemic; that was only the excuse).
You know this if you have traveled around a bit: Florida, Texas, and so on. You encounter members of the diasporic overclass in the strangest places. They are fundamentally changing the culture in once-settled communities, and not always for the better.
When the lockdowns happened in March 2020, those with the means left the big cities and whole states like California, looking for greener pastures. By this they meant charming and “authentic” places where they could hide out with their wealth and get away from it all, while trying their best to preserve the finest of what they loved from whence they came without the downside.
One of those places was Marfa, Texas. The tiny town earned its fame as the center of the 1956 movie “Giant,” starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor, and James Dean. Taylor plays the beautiful and progressive Virginia aristocrat who falls in love with the head of an old ranching family of conservative values and ways. She gradually comes to upgrade the value system of the family and community even as they discover enormous oil reserves on the property.
Now, there’s a story that would appeal to a well-to-do urban member of the overclass looking for a place to find refuge and perhaps get even richer. It’s a perfect legend. In their naivete and preposterous presumption that they can fit in anywhere, many moved to Marfa and places like it all over the state.
The center of the town today is the Hotel Paisano where the cast and crew stayed during filming. No question, the place is completely fabulous in every way. It also costs nearly as much as a midtown Manhattan hotel to stay there.
That aside, it is truly lovely. The decor and infrastructure are idyllic. The big fireplace in the main lobby is a center destination for reading and conversation. Even locals stroll in with their dogs on cold nights and enjoy the setting.
There’s a wonderful bar and celebrated restaurant too. Better get reservations because the place is packed.
There is, however, one major problem. It’s extremely difficult to find workers who can serve, cook, seat people, keep up with reservations, clean dishes, and so on. For that reason, the wait times for food are exorbitantly long. The hours are irregular and they often just have to close because they cannot get anyone to work the place. Many of the people who tend to the duties there are retirees looking for something to do. They are good workers but also their jobs are hardly their first priority.
There is plenty of money flowing through the place. But there are simply not enough people willing to do the work for which the customers are willing to pay. Why is this? Well, it’s in the middle of nowhere: a 7-hour drive from the Dallas airport. (The really well-to-do can take advantage of the airstrip for private aircraft in the neighboring town of Alpine.)
There’s that. A more substantial problem: living there is unbearably expensive for the working classes. This has all happened in only the last several years. Rentals are sky high, if you can find them, and there are no properties for sale.
Sitting around the fireplace, I heard a rumor of a modest house soon coming up for sale. The price: $880,000. Amazing. It seems that the urbanites who have come here to get away from it all have caused a massive change in the economic structures of the town and driven out those who would otherwise be willing to do the work that the rich demand.
All of this was confirmed for me by an old-timer who came in to get out of the cold. He told stories of hordes of “Manhattanites” invading the place from 2020–2022 and buying up every house and property in town. He said you could tell who they were because they dressed in black and snuck around not saying hello to anyone.